Hola Folks, this foodwalk is totally for hardcore meat lovers, vegetarians read at your own risk 😉
During the month of Ramzan many of us visit the most popular Mohammed Ali Road to eat some of the best meat based street food Bombay has to offer. Walking through crowded streets, humidity and sweat, fighting for a seat and shouting to be heard is part of the experience in a good way.
But this year I wanted to walk slowly, savor my food and talk normally. So I choose to go to an alternate place just next to Mohd. Ali Road, known as Bohri Mohalla.
I think of Bohri Mohalla as a character actor and Mohd. Ali Road as a superstar….both good in their own ways and its upto you what you like 🙂
Irfan Khan or Salman Khan whose movie would you prefer to watch? (hehehe couldn’t resist the comparison)
So we start with something grilled, charred and spicy…kebabs at Hajji Tikka. This is a small foodstall at the entrance of the Mohalla.
A must try is the kiri – cows udder (I see you making faces) which is perfectly grilled and melts in your mouth with an after taste of the charred coal.
You can also try chicken tikka, malai tikka etc if you’re not comfortable with beef.
Next we go to chew on some brains and kidneys 🙂
The Indian Hotel specializes in brain masala, kidney masala, Karachi beef rolls, egg rolls, Burma rolls and many more
Do try the brains and kidney dishes with some bread. The Karachi rolls are crispy and piping hot. Also try the fried Aloo… there is nothing vegetarian about it as it is cooked in the same pan as the meats.
There is a lane lined with shops of mostly caterers and shops selling pulav. Of these the shop of Salman Bhai (not the actor but a real Salman Bhai) is the best if you would like to sample some pulav.
The taste is simply amazing. You get beef pulav here and if you’re late you get nothing.
The taste of the pulav is delicate at first with an after taste of spice. One of my favorite dishes in the area. Simply awesome a must try. Thumbs up to this place.
And now it’s time for some locally made fresh off the heat jalebis…one of my favorite sweets 🙂
Noor Sweets has been here for some 80 years or so and specializes in jalebis …it’s not too sweet and just right crispy.
The owner and staff are warm and friendly and you can have a quick chat with them while your jalebis are being made.
The next place is legendary and a must visit….the Surti Barah Handi. A variety of meat dishes are slow cooked for eight hours in nine different pots. These meat dishes are then carefully mixed and sold.
Try the Paya, the nihari and the pichota – ox’s tail (again I see you making faces). It’s ok to be Andrew Zimmerman sometimes 😉
Ask them to add nalli in all your dishes it will add to the flavor. And also ask for some lamba pav and roti, both go well with the dishes.
After all this eating and walking you can try something refreshing.
Visit Imam Sharbatwala who has been here since 1925. He sells a unique drink made with masala milk and watermelon juice. Yeah the combination sounds weird but the taste is super. It refreshes you and makes you want to have another.
Tawakkal Sweets is popular for malpuas and firni.
Mapluas are made especially during Ramzan and may not be available at other times. The firnis are available in many flavors like mango, black currant etc. but try the plain firni since it’s the original flavor.
I have saved the best for last. Taj Ice creams, in Bohri Mohalla has been here for more than 125 years.
They are well known for their fruit flavors like litchi, mango, guava and others. It’s a must must try. You cannot come to Bohri Mohalla and leave without trying the ice cream. It’s like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel tower.
These are handmade ice creams made in the old style way of churning the milk and fruits in an ice cream churner or “sancha” in hindi. No compromise on quality. Its creamy, delicate taste makes you go for second helpings. Thumbs up to this place. Take some home cause you will dream about this.
The places that I have mentioned are opened all year. You can visit them any time with family and friends. Remember to dress modestly.
Most of these shops are 80 to 100 years old and more. So there is a lot of culture and history attached which makes it even more interesting.
The face of Bohri Mohala is fast changing due to the redevelopments projects in the pipeline. Some of these shops may not exist in the future. So now is the time to go visit and be a part of history.